Also known as Bornal, Bornão, Borral, or Borraçal Branco, the Avesso grape variety is first and foremost distinguished by its name. The portuguese word “avesso” is often used as a synonym for a person of bad character or to describe something/situation that is “upside down”, “opposite” to what it should actually be. The name may therefore derive from the difficulties and demands that this variety places on both the vineyard and the winery. Actually, in the vineyard it proves to be very sensitive to disease; the voluminous foliage, which conditions adequate aeration, if removed in excess, increases the risk of sunburn due to its thin skin. It thus needs a lot of intervention and care from budbreak to harvest. In the cellar, there are other challenges related to musts and wines that are very susceptible to oxidation and loss of acidity.
No wonder it was marginalized and forgotten in the past. The name, however, doesn’t say everything and, in some cases, it can be unfair, hiding other characteristics and the great oenological virtues that justify its recovery and the ” fondness” it has received and deserves.
Originally from Baião, it has successfully adapted to other sub-regions, such as Sousa, and particularly those bordering the Douro – Amarante, Paiva, and Basto. Granitic and schist soils, preferably below 300 meters, are those that seem to provide the best conditions for its development, giving rise to fresh wines, with floral and mineral notes and even citrus and stone fruit, slightly more full-bodied when compared to most of its grape variety counterparts. Several winegrowers and winemakers, including Fernando Moura, highlight the aging potential of this grape varietal’s wines, the passage of time and the evolution of which favors the emergence of aromas and tastes of honey and dried fruit, such as almonds. Many voices are praising the benefits of time for Avesso – helping to deconstruct some more conservative ideas about the aging of Vinho Verde wines – adding structure and complexity.
Avesso is gaining ground as a monovarietal, but it is no less versatile, being frequently combined with Alvarinho, Arinto, Loureiro, or Trajadura, adding aromatic complexity and body to blends. In addition, it is also used as the base wine for sparkling wines – a good example is Quinta da Raza Espumante – through which the aforementioned aging potential of the grape variety has begun to be understood.
Avesso wines, with their fresh and elegant character, are the ideal complement to fish and seafood dishes, including pasta and cataplanas; when more evolved, it goes well with cheeses and some charcuterie, such as Serrano ham. The outstanding aromatic complexity, together with the remarkable balance between acidity and structure make Avesso wines suitable for both warm and winter days; it fits perfectly into the category known as ‘Winter White Wines’.
At Quinta da Raza we have approximately three hectares of Avesso and this grape variety can be found in five of our references, revealing the importance and quality we recognize: CURTIMENTA, QUINTA DA RAZA AVESSO, QUINTA DA RAZA AVESSO-ALVARINHO, QUINTA DA RAZA ESPUMANTe and QUINTA DA RAZA FAMILY COLLECTION Nº2.
Undoubtedly one of the most unique wines in our portfolio, CURTIMENTA, 100% Avesso,, is a natural white tanning wine. After harvesting the grapes at the optimum point of ripeness, they are destemmed and placed in our century-old granite lagares where they are left to ferment, only by indigenous yeasts, until about two-thirds of the way through, at which point the wine is transferred to stainless steel vats, where it finishes its fermentation. Its peculiar golden color comes from prolonged contact with the skins and seeds; in the mouth, it is dry and persistent, with aromas of bay leaf and tangerine peel. QUINTA DA RAZA AVESSO, another monovarietal, is fermented in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature and aged for four months on fine lees. The result is an elegant, citrusy wine with a clear, bright appearance and fruity, floral aromas. The harmonious and persistent aftertaste makes it the ideal accompaniment to fish dishes, Asian meals, and white meats and cheeses. In QUINTA DA RAZA AVESSO-ALVARINHO 2020, the Avesso grape variety is 60%; after fermentation in stainless steel vats, 10% of the previous harvest aged for 12 months in French oak is added, followed by a further 18 months on fine lees before bottling. It’s a distinctive wine, of enormous quality, with significant aging potential, pairing well not only with fish but also with meat dishes. QUINTA DA RAZA ESPUMANTE BRUTO NATURAL 2019 is a sparkling wine made using the classic method (Méthode Champenoise), ), with free yeasts and 24 months in the bottle. Avesso is one of the three grape varieties present here (45%), along with Alvarinho (45%) and Arinto (10%). With a dry finish (Bruto Natural) and fine, persistent bubbles, this is the sparkling wine to celebrate good times, aperitifs, and seafood-based starters. Finally, QUINTA DA RAZA FAMILLY COLLECTION Nº2, where the Avesso is in a minority proportion (8%), but no less important. This premium wine from Quinta da Raza was fermented in 500-liter French oak barrels that are five years old, in which it was bâttonaged for 12 months on fine lees. Bottled 28 months after the 2020 harvest, it reveals well-integrated wood and an intense aroma of fruit and spices.
Need more reasons to unconditionally surrender to Avesso?